August 31, 2005: Fifty Mountain to Granite Park

Mileage 11.9
Elevation +/- 1780 / 1910
Fatigue
Camp Rating
Meals  
Breakfast Scrambled eggs
Lunch Marathon bars
Dinner Chicken & Rice and pudding
Water sources No problem

NOTES:

Aside from a half hour climb at the beginning of the day this was an easy 12 mile day...

The first thing Ithought about as I awoke at 6:40 was that it was a good thing the Granite Park Chalet had some snacks to sell. Though I had budgeted my food almost perfectly, knowing that re-supply was possible at the chalet allowed me to dip into my bag a litle more liberally...and I did just that to the point of not having anything to eat after breakfast on our last day on the trail.

Looking back down to Fifty Mountain camp.

After another lousy bag of mountain house scrambled eggs we got moving quickly and were on the trail by 8:10. There was the potential to do some side trips both on the way to, and at Granite Park and we wanted to have enough time to at least get something in if we felt able. The weather was again on the cool side---mid 50's---windy and cloudy which suited me just fine.

We began the day by looking up at what appeared to be a rather lengthy climb back up to the continental divide. In reality, the climb took only a half hour, was no big deal and afforded us some great views looking south and west. Since we were both pretty hardened from our previous four days on the trail we didn't even bother to take a break until we eached Cattle Queen Creek at about 10:40. the sun was starting to make an appearance but it was still quite windy. The view looking at the trail across the valley was superb.

Looking back north towards the continental divide about 45 minutes from Fifty Mountain camp.

We continued our gradual climb until shortly after noon when we decided to stop at the Ahern Trail junction, just below a magnificent cirque. Though Ahern Pass was just a short hike away we decided not to do the extra distance and elevation to see it---something I regret. What I didn't regret was the close proximity of a large boulder which broke the chilling wind coming from the west. I didn't want to leave our shelter to filter water but we were both low and it had to be done. I made a mental note to purchase some gloves when we got off the trail for use on our next hike.

Finally it was time to leave our rock shelter and continue towards Granite Park. The trail took us through more burn areas, scree and talus fields, not to mention more alpine scenery. The miles were melting away very quickly and I was feeling great. Any misgivings I had about doing 12 miles in the pathetic shape I was in before the hike began were now a distant memory.

Dorf enjoying the view from the Highline Trail.

At 3:05 we caught our first glimpse of the Granite Park Chalet and began descending to the backcountry campground. Despite taking numerous breaks and many photos we had managed to cover the nearly 12 miles in less than 6 hours. We had our pick of campsites as we were the first ones there and chose one with a great view to the west.

While Mike was finishing setting up I decided to hike up to the chalet for a snickers and pepsi. The way I saw it, if the opportunity was there it couldn't be cheating. Or could it? It took about 20 minutes to hike up to the chalet and it seemed almost longer than the 12 miles we just completed. Mike and I decided that we'd prepare dinner up there so I had brought along my food bag and water bottle.

While waiting for Mike to join me I busied myself in the chalet researching lost lodges of the park. On one stretch of trail we were convinced there had to have been a lodge near fifty Mountain because the trail was so wide and well constructed. Despite looking through several historical accounts I could not find a record of any lodge north of Granite Park. There were some in other places that are not standing now: St. Mary, Cut Bank, Two Medicine (the general store there was part of the lodge complex), and Sun Point. It was interesting reading and I enjoyed looking at old pictures of the park while sipping on two Pepsi's. I had to settle for a couple of Baby Ruth bars as they were sold out of Snickers. Dammit. This wasn't my day!

Mike getting ready to prepare his dinner from our veranda at Granite Park Chalet.

Soon enough Mike joined me and we found a vacant picnic table with great views toward Lake McDonald valley and Logan Pass on the south side of the chalet. We eyeballed the trail leading to Grinnell Glacier. I was still pissed at myself for not hiking up to Ahern Pass and thought this might be a good chance to redeem myself. The problem was that I was only wearing my Tevas and daylight was running short. I probably wouldn't have made it back down before nightfall had I went up.

Dinner in this beautiful setting was about as good as it got. Not only did we have the views, but we also had a picnic table all for ourselves, partly sunny skies and candy bars close by. It was perfect. After we ate I bought another Baby Ruth a Pepsiand a couple Clif Bars for the trip out tomorrow as I had nothing but a ziplock full of oatmeal and two pieces of beef jerky left in my food bag. I was actually very pleased I had figured out my food needs as precisely as I had.

By 8:00 we were back at our campsite and decided to have some tea. I'm not a tea lover, but it almost seemed like the thing to do in that setting. We talked with an odd fellow who was with us at Fifty the previous night. He was nearing the end of his 50-something day trip from Philly. We never could figure out what he did for a living that afforded him to take such a long vacation, nor did he tell us. Another mystery likely never to be solved.

After tea we went back to our campsite and sat, watching the sky turn a million different shades of orange, purple, pink and red. It was spectacular, as most things in Glacier are. We were joined by the Atlanta pair for a while until it was time to turn in for the night.

Sunset from our campsite.

As I wrote in my journal it struck me that this might be my last night in Glacier's backcountry for another year, and maybe longer. Mike had been away from home for a long time and was going to go back after we got off tomorrow. I couldn't blame him as he'd been gone for over a month. Our second hike was likely to be a no-go due to the ongoing bear situation near Two Med anyway.

Now I had a small predicament of my own. I was beginning to really miss Yumi and my boys, and thought i could leave without regret. However, this was Glacier, my obsession for the last couple of years. How could I leave when I still had the time to spend? I decided that I'd try to get the second hike Yumi and I were going to do in July: Gunsight Pass to lake McDonald Lodge. If I got it, I'd stay. If I didn't I would drive home and probably regret it the entire winter. I had to get the hike.

I felt much better about things as I drifted off to sleep now that I had a plan.