September 4, 2005: Gunsight Lake to Sperry

Mileage 6.2 Elevation +/- 2790 / 1567 Fatigue Camp Rating Meals   Breakfast Oatmeal Lunch Clif and marathon bars Dinner Beef Stroghanoff Water sources No problem NOTES: A good day with great scenery ...Quite a few opportunities for dayhiking at Sperry including Lincon Peak and Comeau Pass ...

I awoke to yet another perfect Montana day just before 7 AM. Today could be, in theory, one of the more difficult days of my trip as we had a 2800' climb to deal with. Gunsight Pass didn't look like it would be that difficult so I figured we'd have a couple of medium-sized ups on tap.

Climbing toward Gunsight Pass.

When we got over to the food prep area the froup from St. Louis and the Canadians were already there. The Missourians were going to be hiking to Snyder Lakes today and needed an early start. I ate my customary oatmeal without a lot of enthusiasm and made the short hike back up to the site to break camp.

By 8:20 we were set to go. I stopped by the food prep area to say goodbye to the Canadians and the group from Missouri. The Montana group was filtering down and we said we'd see each other later at Sperry.

Looking back at Gunsight Lake.

The hike up the pass proved to be much easier than it appeared from the campground. Though we wee constantly climbing, the grade was gentle in most places. At one point we thought we heard a gruntng noise coming from the brush very close to the trail and immediately thought "BEAR". If it was, he let us pass without incident.

We took our first break of the day about 5 minutes before the pass when we caught up to Larry and Carol from Australia. This was the couple who had spent their time secluded from everyone else at Gunsight Lake by hanging out at the lake. I talked with Larry and Andy with Carol for about a half hour. Andy and Carol were the smart ones as they spent the time sitting down while Larry and I remained standing. Lucky bastards...their "holiday" was approaching three months and had been visiting the western U.S and even up to Alaska.

At 10:15 we made it to the pass and crossed the continental divide one last time. It was very cold and windy up at the pass and decided that I'd better dig the gloves out of my pack and throw on my lightweight fleece. We also got to take a look at the dilapidated shelter cabin. I'm sure if it would have had a roof the shelter would have been very nice. As it was, new roofing materials were bundled neatly alongside the walls. There was one more guest who came to greet us: a solitary mountain goat who didn't look too pleased that we had invaded his home. He was cooperative enough to pose for a few pictures for the four of us, however.

Looking down on Lake Ellen Wilson.

Andy and Carol had already started down the trail while Larry and I were taking pictures so they got to see Lake Ellen Wilson and beyond before we did. What an incredible view. We were probably 1000' feet above the lake which was surrounded on three sides by mountains. The stream at the foot of the lake emptied into Lincoln Lake (Beaver Creek Falls) another 1000' feet below. As the trail switchbacked down from Gunsight Pass Larry and I made pleasant conversation. They would be stopping to camp at Lake Ellen Wilson and hike out to the lodge tomorrow.

We made it down to the lake and immediately began our second climb up towards Sperry. After only a few minutes we reached the Lake Ellen Wilson campground spur trail and said goodbye to our new friends from down under around 11:15. They would get to spend the balance of their day hanging out by the lake once again.

The next half hour was spend climbing the northern flank of Lincoln Peak. I was starting to poop out a little it and suggested we stop for lunch. We had a nice view and plenty of talus on which to sit my weary butt. Once finished with my energy bars I thought i'd try to give Yumi a call on my cell phone. I debated whether or not to bring it along on the hike but thought "why not?" Much to my surprise I got a signal and was able to talk with Yumi for about 5 minutes. Andy wasn't as fortunate and couldn't get a signal. I'm glad I called when I did because I couldn't get a signal from the Sperry campground later that afternoon.

By 12:10 we were ready to do the final mile to our campsite. As it turned out we were finished climbing for the day and spent the next 40 minutes dropping in about 600 feet in elevation which was fine with me. Shortly before 1 PM we we arrived at the campground. Someone was already camped there but we got the prime site with an ideal view looking down on Lake McDonald and beyond. We decided we'd have to have party later tonight to take advantage of our location.

After we got our tents set up we decided to make a run over to the Sperry Chalet and perhaps grab something more to eat. It took a good 15 minutes to make our way over to the Chalet but made it just in time to get the last two bowls of Bean and Ham soup. Very good. I added on a $5.00 fried egg sandwich and a glass of lemonade. Afterwards I bought a couple of Snickers.

Lake McDonald from the Sperry backcountry campground.

Frankly, the views at the chalet couldn't hold a candle to the one we had back at our site or at Granite Park. The rooms, however were very cozy and rustic, and in my opinion nicer than the rooms at Many Glacier Hotel or Glacier Park Lodge. Of course, there were no private bathrooms and the rooms were smaller, but I would still take the chalet over the lodges any day.

After we finished our second lunch we hiked back to the camp site to relax on our rock veranda. Not long after Chris and Mike arrived at the campground. Chris decided to run down to the chalet while Mike was left to try and organize their site. they had three tents between the four of them and trying to find space for all would prove to be difficult. We had briefly thought of taking their site when we got in but decided to leave it for them as it appeared to be a little larger. Besides, ours had the killer view.

Soon, Velma and Scott arrived with their other two tents and the fun began. Andy, Mike, Chris and I had a good time watching the others try to squeeze their tents onto the site. They eventually got it then suggested we go climb to the top of Lincoln Peak. Hey, why not? They already gave me crap for not hiking to the glacier the day before. Now it was time to redeem myself by climbing my first ever 7'er. We all had a good time with that and the fact that I had told them I already did a side trip today---right to the chalet for lunch.

Andy and Dorf on Lincoln Peak.

It seemed that Velma and Mike had a nickname for young Chris: "Fucking Bastard". Though not a big guy and in his late 20's, Chris was an animal. He walked right up to the peak without even breathing hard. Andy was close behind while Velam and I were content to fall behind but still well ahead of Scott and Mike. Without too much effort or pain we made it to the top. The reward was a great look at both Gunsight and Ellen Wilson to the northeast, Lake McDonald to the west and the chalet to the northwest. It was a truly stunning view. We all spent a few minutes taking it all in then scrambled back down to camp.

Dinner was a brief affair without much talk and was over quickly. I guess everyone wanted to get back to our veranda to watch the sun set. the six of us spent the remainder of the night in almost total darkness discussing everything from politics, alien life, China and the law. It was a clear night and was starting to get very cold but we were all mesmerized by the stars overhead and didn't want to turn in. Instead we brought out our sleeping bags and kept warm. A few goats provided some mild entertainment and we wondered how they could jump around on the rocky cliffs in the darkness without going over. Finally at 10:30 we all decided we'd had enough for one night and climbed into our tents.

I was glad I had decided to purchase long undies, gloves and a hat in Columbia Fall a few days ago as it was damn cold. For the first time all trip I had to sleep all bundled up---including the gloves. it didn't matter: it was another great day in Glacier.