August 8 & 9: The Drive West

Once again, I prove to be the master packer of small SUV's

I spent a long and boring day at work, again trying to think of details that I might have forgotten. Still somewhat wasted from my Wind River trip I hadn't started getting ready for Glacier until sunday afternoon---a definite change of p[ace from our first visit back in 2004. I couldn't think of anything important that slipped by and raced home from work after stopping at the bank for some cash.

Yumi, my mother and I were able to pack the truck and get some food together for the trip out pretty quickly. I was proud that I had pared our load down to a more manageable size and jumped into the shower to celebrate my packing skills.

By 4 PM we said goodbye to my boys and mother and hit the road, hoping to get 8 or 9 hours west before stopping for a few hours of sleep in the back of the truck. Yumi had her reservations that we'd be able to move the gear from the back of the truck and fit it all in the front seat but I had no doubts.

While cruising through central Wisconsin Yumi occupied herself by reading Ruins while I played a few of my favorite country music compilations---at low volume of course. My wife doesn't like country. My original tank of gas got us through the twin cities and my obligatory flipping of the bird at the Metrodome, and to Monticello, MN where we filled up and were each impressed by two young clerks friendliness in separate interactions.

Just after 12:30 AM we made the North Dakota border and decided to stop at the next rest area near Valley City for a few hours of sleep. We made it to the rest area at 1:15 and moved our gear to the front seat. Naturally, it all fit and we inflated our thermarests for what we hoped would be a comfortable nights sleep.

Unfortunately, I had been drinking a lot of water and cranberry juice during the evening and found myself up at two hour intervals to take a squirt, waking Yumi in the process. Needless to say, neither of us got a lot of sleep that night and decided to screw sleep just before 6 AM.

After only 20 minutes on the road we crossed the lofty continental divide at 1,490' and needed to fill up the gas tank and Yumi's coffee mug at Jamestown, ND after another 20 minutes. We resumed our trip west with Yumi at the wheel while I tried to get a few more hours of sleep in the back seat.

I had stopped for gas in Medora, ND, during last years trip to the Beartooths and thought Yumi might find it interesting so I suggested we stop there to top off the tank and a stretch. To me, Medora looks like the prototypical wild west town, dissected by the Missouri River surrounded by bluffs and small hills. After munching down a banana and filling up the tank we started off and were soon back on the interstate.

It didn't take long for us to cross into Montana and soon were closing in on Glendive. Knowing that smoke would be a way of life in Glacier for a while I again asked Yumi if she was sure she wanted to go to Glacier, thinking there was a chance I could get her to ask about an alternative, namely the Beartooths. She wasn't buying that so we got off the interstate at Glendive and began heading north to Wolf Point on desolate Montana state highways, arriving at 12:30.

We continued west on US 2 passing through Glasgow, Malta, Chester, Havre and finally to Shelby where we filled up the tank for the final stretch run to the park.

Smoke was evident as we scanned the horizon for a glimpse of the mountains, but no mountains were to be seen. As we passed through Browning we were able to make out the faint outline of the Rockies in the distance. The excitement I usually experience was subdued: things did not look good. As we proceeded to St. Mary the smoke seemed to thin just a bit but even the joy of that was quickly tempered as we travelled through the burn area from the large fire a year before. The beautiful drive down to the park was now nothing but a graveyard of burned trees.

We entered the park shortly after 7 PM, bought our season pass, made the short drive to the St. Mary campground and quickly set up camp. With luck we just might have enough time to get dinner and a shower. Having already done the Park Cafe numerous times we decided to make the short drive north to the Two Sisters.

The restaurant was busy, but we were able to get 2 stools at the counter and quickly ordered a couple of BBQ beef sandwiches and lemonade. Big John, most likely the owner of the restaurant, was all about the dining room schmoozing his guests while the two cooks worked at a frantic pace trying to keep up. They did good as our meal was delivered in about 10 minutes...it was looking like we'd make that shower which meant Yumi would be in a good mood for the rest of the night.

After stopping back at the camp site for our change of clothes and toiletries we ran up to Rising Sun, bought our tokens, got cleaned up and were back at our tent by 9:40. Looking forward to a good night sleep, we crawled into the tent only to realize that Yumi didn't fill the mattress with enough air as we sunk precariously close to the ground. In the end it didn't matter as we both were asleep in a matter of minutes.