August 17,18 & 19: Western Montana and the Trip Home

Yumi is ready to hit the road now that she's got a cup of coffee.

I'll blame my sleeping until 8:30 on the Moose Drool's consumed during the previous day. We had previously decided that with Yumi's sore knee that we'd take the long way back home through Whitefish, Kalispell and maybe Missoula. Yumi had always wanted to see Whitefish, and I was curious to get a look at Missoula since it's on my short list of places to semi-retire to.

We quickly broke camp, loaded up the truck and stopped at the Apgar store for some milk and coffee to go along with our day old Polebridge pastries. Departing Glacier this time wasn't nearly the traumatic experience it was for us in 2004 but still a bit sad. I couldn't help but think of missing Boulder Pass and Hole in the Wall. Someday. The sky was particularly thick with smoke and i had to wonder if the scenic drive down to Seeley Lake would even be worth it?

Once we made it to Whitefish I realized that I was overdue for an oil change so we found a Quick Lube and got that taken care of before exploring downtown Whitefish. Quite the bustlin' town, Whitefish boasted a lovely central business district with many gift shops and eateries. We purchased a few gifts then found a bookstore so that Yumi could find something to read on the way home. In a moment of stupidity I recommended Tom Clancy's "Debt of Honor". Anyone who's read the book knows that the "villain" in this epic novel is Japan. Yumi is Japanese. Doh. At least I now had another copy for myself!

Downtown Whitefish

We cruised along the main street, stopping in a few shops to find a few more gifts for family members but couldn't find much that excited us other than the Craggy Range Bar and Grill for lunch. Managing to beat the normal lunch rush we were ushered to a small table looking out onto the main street. The menu appealed to Yumi, especially the Lake Trout BLT. I settled for, ironically, the Smoky Range Burger and a side order or sweet potato fries. Shortly after I ordered the fries I realized I had just had a "blonde moment" thinking that, for some unexplainable reason, I was ordering baby red fries. Oops. I thought they sucked while Yumi liked them very much. The burger and BLT were both delicious and our server semi-hot once you got past the multiple piercings and goth-like eye liner.

Soon we were back in the truck heading towards Kalispell through the smoke. We didn't get to see a lot of Kalispell through the haze other than an abundance of big box stores and a rapidly expanding housing boom.

Summit Lake

Continuing south towards Seeley Lake on 83 we were hoping for some relief from the smoke in order to see what many have said is a very scenic drive. Luck would not be on our side as we saw very little other than Summit Lake. The big steer at Clearwater Junction proved to be the highlight of this leg of our journey.

Feeling cheated for the umpteenth time during the trip we decided to bag the sightseeing and made a beeline for the interstate at Missoula. I'd also wanted to at least drive through but figured that to be a waste of time. I can see city streets back at home. Once on I-90 our next stop would be Butte. I'd remembered driving past Butte in 1978 thinking it was a cool town. Today we'd drive to the heart of the downtown looking for oriental food, and after a little bit of searching came across the Pekin Noodle Parlor.

Yumi about to dig in to her chop suey

Like most of the downtown, the restaurant was located in an older building that appeared to be listing downhill. Not yet worried about our saftey, we climbed a narrow staircase which seemed to lead to nowhere. At the top of the stairs we were confounded by the lack of things most associated with restaurants: a hostess, tables and the sound of diners and/or kitchen. One corridor led to an empty sitting room containing some beat up furniture that even the most desperate fraternity house would take a pass on. We were just about to leave when we finally made contact with the hostess who escorted us to a small enclosed booth with an additional curtain drawn across the entrance for added privacy.

Noting the pink walls, I was suddenly overcome with one of my many brilliant thoughts: We were eating in an old whorehouse! I kept this thought to myself for a while and perused the tattered menu for something that I hoped wouldn't make me sick. I had little doubt that the Pekin Noodle Parlor would've flunked a health inspection. Throwing caution to the wind, I ordered a combination plate and hoped for the best, while Yumi went with some noodle soup.
The food was forgettable but the conversation we had with our server after paying our bill was not. I just had to ask her about the history of the building. Originally, so she was told, the building was a boarding house for Chinese immigrants working in the mines, but she and most of the rest of the city didn't believe that line of crap and more or less confirmed my original thoughts.

As we made our way back to the interstate we passed a high school football field with many charcoal grills fired up and full bleachers. The carnival atmosphere, I believe, was Butte Central's intrasquad football game. I wanted to stop and take a look but didn't think Yumi would go for it. Instead we got back on I-90 east. At least I'd get a look at the Absaroka's before nightfall---maybe.

Before too long, the drought-buster struck again and we were driving through rain. I hoped it would rain like hell and give some much-needed relief and fire suppression but it soon fizzled out.Approaching Bozeman around 8 PM it occurred to Yumi that we needed to find a place to sleep for the night and didn't mind setting up camp one last night. I had no idea where to go but decided to head south on 85 hoping to run into a NFS camp ground before too long. After about 15 minutes without luck we decided to head into Bozeman and get a motel room for the night.

The Occidental Hotel in downtown Buffalo, WY

We found suitably cheap accomodations on the east end of town and immediately hit the showers. I'd noticed several maintenance issues while Yumi was getting cleaned up and a few more when it was my turn in the bathroom but wasn't going to complain too much for $40 a night. Better than sleeping in the back of the truck to be sure. Yumi then informed me that the building was going to be torn down in just a few days.

After a shower and snack we watched a little TV and hit the sack. It felt good to sleep in a bed again though I wished we were still in the park.

I was up by 6:00 AM and again went to the truck so that Yumi could sleep a little longer and to figure out the best way home. I eventually decided on heading south on I-90 once we got to Billings largely because I wanted to get a look at the Bighorns.

We checked out by 8:00 and were on the road heading east. Soon the Crazy Mountains came into view and I was reminded of my trip to the Absaroka's the previous year. Since Yumi hadn't had her coffee and we needed gas I got off the interstate at Big Timber and drove over to "The Fort" where we purchased gas, coffee and danish. I love "The Fort."

Dorf focusing on the road

Soon after we got back on the road we passed through Billings and made the turn south. I had never been on this stretch of road and was amazed at the sight of the high plains. Then we entered the Crow Indian reservation and was amazed by that as well, but for different reasons.

By the time the Bighorns came into view it was about time for lunch so we decided to take a drive through Buffalo to see if we could find an establishment that could rival the noodle parlor for lunch. We parked at the same place I'd parked in 2005 and started walking the main street, aptly called "Main Street", to find it. I'd hoped the Occidental Hotel dining room open for lunch, but it was closed for renovations. Out of luck, we decided to head back toward the interstate and ate at the Bozeman Trail Steak House, chatting with a nice elderly couple from Sheridan while we ate.

After gassing up (2.97 per gallon) it was time to get serious about getting home. By 3:30 PM we were in South Dakota and breaking the posted speed limit by nearly 15 mph. We made a quick stop at the Piedmont rest area and pushed on.

We were both starting to get hungry about the time we entered the central time zone at 6:15 (or, more correctly, 7:15). Unfortunately, South Dakota is what it is and we had to drive another hour to get to the next town of any size, Chamberlain. Managing to waste a half hour driving through the Chamberlain-Oacoma metroplex, we settled on dining at Al's Oasis which was 1 minute from the exit we'd gotten off at.

The meal pretty much sucked, but was enough to get us through to Minnesota where we pulled off for the night at the Worthington rest area a bit past midnight.

Up again at 6:15 I wanted nothing more than to get home. We were dead-tired and still had about 8 hours of driving to do. But by 9:40 we were back in the land of highly taxed gas/Wisconsin and stopped for one last fill up.

Yumi had mentioned that her SGI chapter was having a meeting in Oshkosh later that afternoon. Since my wife was such a trooper during the trip I made it my special mission to get her there sometime during the meeting.

We made it. I fell asleep during their meeting and woke up in time for lunch. After saying goodbye to Yumi's friends we completed the drive back home, arriving around 5 PM.