July 18: West Glacier
sacred dancing cascade
Yumi and Sacred Dancing Cascade. Check out the movie
Some habits are hard to break. I was up at 0600 with nothing to do. I walked down to the lobby hoping to find a newspaper, but learned they weren’t delivered until 0645. About the only news we got in the backcountry was about Lance Armstrong and a rumor that Laura Bush was about a day behind us near Cosley Lake. I found a copy of some magazine and started reading in front of the big window overlooking Grinnell point.

The early morning desk guy, probably a college student trying to earn next semesters beer money, walked up behind me and simply stated “they actually pay me to work here.” I called him a lucky bastard and commented how beautiful the mountain looked. I would have worked there for free at that moment myself.

After a few more minutes I went back to the room and woke yumi up. The plan for today was to get a fairly early start so that we could get a good campsite at one of the west side campgrounds. We each showered at went downstairs to Heidi’s--which is Swiss for convenience store in the basement-- where we bought milk, coffee and some danish.

Before we took the sun road over to the other side, we needed to stop at St. Mary and pick up a few things and some ice. I also wanted to check out the backcountry office to see how the bear activity was near Oldman Lake. Much to our dismay the campground was still closed. Damn. We were probably gong to have to come up with another plan.

We made it over Logan Pass and down to Sprague Creek campground and were lucky enough to find a site open right on the water. We snagged that site and set up the tent quickly and jumped back into the truck to go to Apgar Village.

Apgar was a nice little "community". The road ran straight down to Lake McDonald and was lined with gift shops, stores and a hotel. Neat. There was also a backcountry ranger office here so I decided to stop in to maybe find an alternative hike to the Dawson Pass loop in case the bears messed up our plans. Turned out that the ranger at St. Mary had bad information. Oldman lake was open, but posted, meaning we had to be extra careful. Our hike was back on!!!

johns lake
Johns Lake

We spent some time visiting all of the gift shops and general store. Since it was close to lunch time we stopped at Eddies and bought a few sandwiches before heading out to West Glacier.

West Glacier is the rafting capital of the area with trips down the Flathead River. I wanted to check with the Montana Raft Company to make sure we were good for the 23rd. We were.

Since we didn’t get pie last night at the Park Cafe, we decided to try some at the restaurant in town. Yumi tried the huckleberry pie with a scoop of ice cream while I went with Rhubarb-strawberry a la mode as well. Very Yummy.

Even though we had been off the trail for less than a day, Yumi had the urge to walk. I think she secretly like the way her legs were starting to tone up from the work and wanted to keep going. We decided to hike to Sacred Dancing cascade from the Lake McDonald Lodge---about a 5 mile hike.

We had a lot of experience avoiding the bear poop for most of our trip, but nothing prepared us for this. The trail was used by a stable for trail rides...you get the idea. For over a mile we walked through horse shit until finally the trail to the cascade branched off. We came to John’s Lake after awhile, took a few pictures and discovered that we didn’t know which fork of trail to take to Sacred Dancing Cascade. We solved that problem by walking back to the Lodge and driving back over instead. It was incredible to see what years and years of water could do to smooth the rocks near the creek.

Back at the campsite we took a short rest and then fixed dinner: Fettucini Alfredo with chicken and salad. We topped this off by running back to the Lodge and grabbing some ice cream. It was another beautiful night in the park and it seemed a crime to go to bed at 2200 but we were tired.